Glycerin is a naturally derived humectant—a ingredient that draws moisture from the air into your skin. It's one of the most widely used and well-studied moisturizing agents in skincare, helping skin feel softer and more hydrated.
Benefits
Attracts and retains moisture in the skin
Improves skin hydration and softness
Helps strengthen skin barrier function
Suitable for most skin types, including sensitive skin
Science: The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel concluded glycerin is safe as used in cosmetics across all concentrations. Research shows glycerin effectively improves skin hydration and is well-tolerated with minimal irritation risk. It is also referenced in clinical guidelines for managing inflammatory skin conditions and maintaining skin integrity.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that prevents bacteria, yeast, and mold from growing in skincare products, helping them stay fresh and safe to use. It has been used safely in cosmetics for decades and is effective at very low concentrations.
Benefits
Prevents microbial contamination and product spoilage
Broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity against bacteria and yeast
Minimal impact on beneficial skin bacteria when used at approved levels
Potential concerns
Rare allergic contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals
May cause irritation if used in products at concentrations above 1%
Science: The European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety considers phenoxyethanol safe for all consumers, including children, at concentrations up to 1%. Adverse effects observed in animal studies required exposure levels approximately 200 times higher than those in cosmetic products, and it is classified as one of the most well-tolerated preservatives in cosmetics.
Polysorbate 20 is a mild emulsifier and solubilizer commonly used in skincare products to help mix oil and water-based ingredients together and keep them stable. It's also used to help dissolve fragrance and active ingredients evenly throughout a formula.
Benefits
Helps create stable, smooth textures by blending incompatible ingredients
Improves product consistency and shelf life
Allows even distribution of active ingredients and fragrance
Potential concerns
May cause irritation or allergic reactions in people with sensitive skin
Can occasionally strip skin's natural oils if used in high concentrations
Some individuals report sensitivity to polysorbates, though this is relatively uncommon
Science: The provided study examined polysorbate 20 as a formulation component in a clinical cancer treatment (vidutolimod), not as a cosmetic ingredient. Limited peer-reviewed data exists specifically evaluating polysorbate 20 safety in topical skincare; however, it is widely used globally and recognized as safe by major regulatory bodies (FDA, EU) at typical cosmetic concentrations (typically under 5%).
Tocopherol is a form of vitamin E, a fat-soluble antioxidant that protects skin from damage caused by free radicals and oxidative stress. It helps maintain skin's natural barrier function and is commonly used in skincare products to prevent premature aging and support overall skin health.
Benefits
Protects skin from free radical damage and oxidative stress
Supports skin barrier function and moisture retention
May help reduce signs of aging caused by UV exposure and environmental damage
Works as a lipid antioxidant to prevent degradation of skin oils
Science: Tocopherol (α-tocopherol) is recognized in peer-reviewed research as a key endogenous defense mechanism against oxidative stress in aging skin, particularly from UV-induced damage. Studies confirm it functions as a lipid-soluble antioxidant capable of preventing lipid peroxidation, with established efficacy in cosmetic and therapeutic applications.
Ethylhexylglycerin is a preservative and antimicrobial ingredient used to prevent bacterial growth and extend shelf life in skincare products. It's a multifunctional ingredient that helps keep formulations stable and free from contamination.
Benefits
Prevents bacterial contamination in products
Helps extend product shelf life
Works synergistically with other preservatives for enhanced protection
Potential concerns
May not be effective against all bacterial species (notably some Pseudomonas aeruginosa strains)
Preservative-related sensitization possible in sensitive individuals, though uncommon
Science: Research shows ethylhexylglycerin has broad antimicrobial activity against many common cosmetic contaminants, though effectiveness varies by bacterial species. Studies demonstrate it can work synergistically with other preservative components to enhance biofilm inhibition.
Laureth-7 is a mild cleansing and emulsifying ingredient that helps oils and water mix together in skincare formulas. It's derived from lauryl alcohol and is commonly used to improve product texture and stability.
Benefits
Helps formulations blend smoothly and feel consistent
Aids in even distribution of active ingredients
Allows water-based and oil-based ingredients to work together
Potential concerns
Potential for contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals, particularly when combined with certain polymers
May cause irritation in people with atopic or very reactive skin
Science: A 2019 case report documented contact dermatitis from a cream containing laureth-7 mixed with polyacrylamide and isoparaffin in patients with atopic skin, suggesting caution for sensitive individuals. Laureth-7 is used in various cosmetic formulations including sunless tanning and emollient products with generally acceptable safety profiles in most skin types.
Phytosphingosine is a naturally-derived lipid (fatty substance) that helps strengthen your skin's protective barrier. It works by replenishing the lipids that keep skin moisturized and resilient, while also helping to calm inflammation and reduce acne-causing bacteria.
Benefits
Supports skin barrier function and hydration
Reduces inflammation and redness
Helps control acne-prone skin with antimicrobial properties
Science: Research indicates phytosphingosine has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties that may accelerate acne recovery when used in topical formulations. It appears particularly useful in products designed to restore skin barrier health in conditions like eczema and acne-prone skin.
Carbomer is a thickening agent and stabilizer that gives skincare products their gel-like texture. It helps create a smooth, spreadable consistency and can hold active ingredients in place on the skin for better absorption.
Benefits
Creates a smooth, easy-to-apply gel texture
Helps stabilize and thicken formulations
Can improve how long active ingredients stay on the skin
Allows better delivery of beneficial compounds into deeper skin layers
Potential concerns
Can occasionally cause irritation or sensitivity in very reactive skin types
Requires proper pH adjustment in formulations (formulators use this, not consumers)
Science: Research shows carbomer is commonly used as a gel base in advanced skincare delivery systems, including those designed for anti-inflammatory and healing treatments. Studies indicate it effectively works with active ingredients like nanoparticles and botanical extracts to improve their penetration and efficacy on skin.
Cholesterol is a naturally occurring fatty substance that is a key component of your skin's outermost barrier. In skincare products, it works alongside ceramides and fatty acids to help strengthen this barrier, keeping moisture in and irritants out.
Benefits
Strengthens skin barrier function
Helps retain skin hydration
Works synergistically with ceramides and fatty acids for optimal barrier repair
Science: Cholesterol is a natural and essential component of the stratum corneum (outer skin layer), present in roughly equal amounts to ceramides and free fatty acids. Research shows that topical formulations combining cholesterol with ceramides and fatty acids in physiological ratios effectively support barrier function and can improve disturbed skin conditions.
Tetrasodium EDTA is a chelating agent that binds to minerals (like calcium and magnesium) in skincare formulations. It's used to improve product stability, preserve texture, and prevent unwanted chemical reactions that can degrade the formula over time.
Benefits
Stabilizes skincare formulations and extends shelf life
Prevents discoloration and separation in products
Helps other active ingredients work more effectively
Potential concerns
May increase skin penetration of other ingredients—formulators should carefully assess what it's combined with
Not absorbed through intact skin, but inhalation from sprays should be avoided
Generally safe at typical use levels (under 2%), but not intended for ingestion
Science: The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel confirmed tetrasodium EDTA is safe in cosmetic formulations at standard concentrations (typically under 2%), based on studies showing no skin absorption and systemic exposure well below toxic thresholds. The main consideration is that it can enhance penetration of other ingredients, so product formulation matters.
Polyacrylamide is a synthetic polymer used in skincare products as a thickener and film-former that helps create smooth textures and provide a light protective layer on the skin. It's commonly found in gels, moisturizers, and other formulations where a stable, gel-like consistency is desired.
Benefits
Creates smooth, spreadable product texture
Helps products adhere to skin without feeling heavy
Provides lightweight film-forming properties for a polished finish
Science: The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel reaffirmed in 2023 that polyacrylamide is safe as a cosmetic ingredient at typical use concentrations and practices, based on a comprehensive review of available safety data. No significant dermatological concerns have been identified in peer-reviewed literature for topical cosmetic use.
Cyclopentasiloxane is a lightweight silicone fluid commonly used in skincare products as an emollient and slip agent. It helps products glide smoothly onto skin and creates a soft, silky feel without leaving a greasy residue.
Benefits
Smooth application and comfortable feel
Lightweight moisturizing layer
Helps other ingredients spread evenly across skin
Potential concerns
May not be suitable for acne-prone skin as it can be occlusive
Some people prefer to avoid silicones due to environmental concerns
Can accumulate on skin if not properly cleansed
Science: Limited peer-reviewed data available for this ingredient in skincare efficacy studies. Cyclopentasiloxane is widely used in cosmetics and considered safe by regulatory bodies, though some environmental persistence concerns have been noted in chemical literature.
Ceramide NP is a naturally-derived lipid that mimics ceramides found in healthy skin. It works to repair and strengthen your skin's protective barrier, helping it retain moisture and resist irritation.
Benefits
Restores skin barrier function and structural integrity
Reduces trans-epidermal water loss (helps skin stay hydrated)
Strengthens skin's natural defense against irritants and environmental stressors
Science: Recent research demonstrates that Ceramide NP effectively recovers damaged skin barrier function and can be formulated into advanced delivery systems (like ethosomes) to enhance skin absorption. Studies show it meaningfully lowers water loss while restoring epidermis structure in compromised skin.
Parfum is a mixture of fragrant compounds used to add pleasant scent to skincare products. It's typically composed of essential oils, aromatic chemicals, and solvents blended together to create a specific fragrance profile.
Benefits
Improves sensory experience and enjoyment of using the product
Can enhance perceived product quality and appeal
Potential concerns
May cause allergic contact dermatitis or sensitization, especially in those with fragrance sensitivity
Can irritate sensitive or compromised skin barriers
Potential photosensitivity concerns with certain fragrance ingredients when exposed to sunlight
Science: Limited peer-reviewed data available for this ingredient. Fragrance is a known allergen and irritant in some individuals; regulatory bodies like the EU require disclosure of 26 specific allergenic fragrance components when present above threshold levels.
CI 14700 (also called Red 4 or Amaranth) is a synthetic red colorant used to tint skincare products. It has no active skincare benefits and is purely for visual appeal and product identification.
Potential concerns
May cause irritation in people with sensitivities to synthetic dyes
Potential allergic reactions in sensitive individuals
Not recommended for those with azo-dye sensitivities
Science: CI 14700 is approved for cosmetic use in most regions including the EU and Canada, though some markets have restrictions. Limited peer-reviewed data is available specifically for this colorant in skincare applications; safety assessments are primarily based on regulatory approval and general toxicology data for approved colorants.
Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) is a thickening and gelling agent derived from cellulose, a natural plant material. In skincare products, it creates a smooth texture, helps bind ingredients together, and improves how products feel and spread on skin.
Benefits
Creates a smooth, even texture in gels and creams
Helps products spread easily without feeling heavy
Non-ionic, meaning it works well with most other skincare ingredients
Biocompatible and generally well-tolerated by skin
Science: HEC is documented as biocompatible, biodegradable, nontoxic, and water-soluble in peer-reviewed literature. It is widely used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations as a gelling and thickening agent with a strong safety profile in topical applications.
Cyclohexasiloxane is a silicone-derived conditioning agent that creates a smooth, lightweight feel on skin and hair. It helps products glide smoothly and can improve the texture and appearance of formulations without leaving a heavy residue.
Benefits
Smooths and conditions skin and hair
Creates a lightweight, non-greasy feel
Improves product spreadability and texture
Potential concerns
Minimal absorption through skin, but potential bioaccumulation concerns remain under investigation—regulatory agencies continue to evaluate whether this ingredient meets persistence and bioaccumulation criteria
Not recommended for users concerned about persistent chemicals in the environment
Science: Multiple toxicity studies show no skin irritation, sensitization, or genotoxicity concerns at typical cosmetic concentrations. However, recent 2024 research flags that cyclohexasiloxane (D6) may have bioaccumulation potential similar to its predecessors D4 and D5, which were restricted due to PBT/vPvB classification; regulatory review is ongoing and recommendations may change.
Steareth-21 is an emulsifier—a helper ingredient that blends oil and water together in creams and lotions. It's made by combining stearic acid (a natural fatty acid) with ethylene oxide, creating a molecule that stabilizes skincare formulations and keeps them from separating.
Benefits
Helps create stable, smooth emulsions in creams and lotions
Improves product texture and spreadability
Allows other active ingredients to be evenly distributed
Science: Research shows that steareth-21 used in oil-in-water emulsions significantly reduces skin penetration of certain sunscreen agents compared to other emulsifier systems, suggesting it creates a stronger barrier effect. This makes it a preferred choice in protective formulations where controlling ingredient absorption is desirable.
Ceramide AP is a naturally occurring lipid that mimics ceramides found in your skin's outer barrier. It helps restore and maintain the skin's protective layer, reducing moisture loss and supporting overall skin health.
Benefits
Strengthens skin barrier function
Reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
Improves skin hydration and moisture retention
Helps repair compromised or damaged skin barriers
Science: Research confirms ceramide AP is essential for proper stratum corneum (outer skin layer) barrier function and can be effectively incorporated into skincare formulations. Studies using advanced biophysical methods have demonstrated that ceramide AP integrates properly into skin lipid structures, supporting its use as a barrier-repair ingredient.
Ceramide EOP is a plant-derived ceramide that mimics the natural lipids found in your skin's outer barrier. It helps repair and strengthen this protective layer, reducing moisture loss and keeping skin hydrated and resilient.
Benefits
Strengthens skin barrier
Reduces water loss and improves hydration
Soothes dry or sensitive skin
Helps restore skin's natural lipid balance
Science: Ceramides are well-established in skincare science as essential components of the skin barrier. While specific peer-reviewed studies on Ceramide EOP are limited, ceramides as a class are extensively documented as safe and effective for barrier repair and moisturization.
Steareth-2 is a nonionic emulsifier derived from stearyl alcohol and ethylene oxide. It helps mix oil and water in skincare formulations to create stable, smooth creams and lotions.
Benefits
Stabilizes oil-water emulsions
Helps create smooth product texture
Allows even distribution of active ingredients like sunscreens
Potential concerns
May increase skin water loss (TEWL) in normal skin at typical use concentrations
Can affect how much active ingredient penetrates the skin depending on formulation
Science: Research shows steareth-2 acts as an emulsifier but can alter skin barrier function—it increased transepidermal water loss in normal skin while unexpectedly decreasing it in damaged skin, suggesting it may interact with skin lipids. The ingredient also influences how effectively sunscreen agents penetrate or remain on the skin depending on the overall emulsion system used.
Water is the most common ingredient in skincare products, serving as a solvent that dissolves and carries other active ingredients into your skin. It helps hydrate the outer layer of skin and provides the base for creams, serums, and lotions to work effectively.
Benefits
Hydrates and plumps the skin
Helps deliver other active ingredients
Essential base for product texture and consistency
Science: Water is universally recognized as safe for topical application and is essential for skin hydration and barrier function. It has been used in skincare formulations for centuries with no adverse effects.
