Ingredients
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Butylene glycol is a humectant—a type of ingredient that draws water into the skin and helps it stay hydrated. It's a small, lightweight molecule commonly used in moisturizers to improve hydration without leaving a heavy feel on the skin.
Benefits
- Increases skin hydration and moisture retention
- Lightweight and absorbs quickly
- Helps other active ingredients penetrate the skin more effectively
Science: Research demonstrates that butylene glycol, when combined with other humectants (like glycerin and hyaluronic acid) and occlusive ingredients in moisturizers, significantly improves skin hydration in both healthy skin and compromised skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis. It is recognized as a safe, effective humectant in dermatological formulations.
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Glycerin is a naturally derived humectant—a ingredient that draws moisture from the air into your skin. It's one of the most widely used and well-studied moisturizing agents in skincare, helping skin feel softer and more hydrated.
Benefits
- Attracts and retains moisture in the skin
- Improves skin hydration and softness
- Helps strengthen skin barrier function
- Suitable for most skin types, including sensitive skin
Science: The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel concluded glycerin is safe as used in cosmetics across all concentrations. Research shows glycerin effectively improves skin hydration and is well-tolerated with minimal irritation risk. It is also referenced in clinical guidelines for managing inflammatory skin conditions and maintaining skin integrity.
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Caffeine is a natural alkaloid compound that penetrates the skin barrier and is commonly used in skincare products, typically at 3% concentration. It works by stimulating blood flow, reducing puffiness, and protecting skin cells from damage caused by free radicals and UV exposure.
Benefits
- Reduces under-eye puffiness and swelling by improving blood circulation
- Provides antioxidant protection against UV damage and premature aging
- May help break down fat cells and improve the appearance of cellulite
- Activates cellular repair processes that protect against oxidative stress and aging
Potential concerns
- May cause mild irritation or sensitivity in individuals with caffeine sensitivity
- Can cause temporary redness or tingling when applied topically
- Limited evidence for dramatic anti-cellulite results in real-world use
Science: Research shows caffeine effectively penetrates skin and activates autophagy (cellular cleanup) to combat oxidative stress and cellular aging, particularly from UV exposure. Studies demonstrate it inhibits fat accumulation and improves microcirculation, though most evidence comes from controlled lab and animal studies rather than large human trials.
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Citric acid is a naturally occurring organic acid commonly used in skincare products as an exfoliant and pH balancer. It belongs to a group of ingredients called alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) that help remove dead skin cells from the surface.
Benefits
- Gentle exfoliation to improve skin texture and appearance
- Helps reduce the appearance of keratosis and acne
- Balances product pH to maintain skin compatibility
Potential concerns
- Can cause irritation, redness, or sensitivity in some users, especially with prolonged or frequent use
- May increase sun sensitivity — sunscreen use is recommended when using AHA products
- Not suitable for very sensitive or compromised skin without caution
Science: Citric acid is an established AHA used in cosmetics for superficial peeling and skin appearance improvement, though research emphasizes that caution should be exercised due to potential adverse reactions. It is widely produced industrially and well-established in skincare formulations.
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Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent that binds to metals and minerals in skincare formulations, helping to preserve product stability and extend shelf life. It's used in small amounts (typically under 2%) to prevent unwanted chemical reactions that could degrade the formula.
Benefits
- Stabilizes cosmetic formulations by binding trace metals
- Extends product shelf life and maintains efficacy
- Allows other skincare ingredients to work more effectively
Potential concerns
- May increase skin penetration of other ingredients by chelating calcium in the skin barrier—only a concern if combined with potentially harmful substances
- Not absorbed through skin in normal use, but inhalation from sprays was identified as a theoretical concern in safety assessments
Science: The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel confirmed safety in 2023 based on standard use concentrations. Clinical studies show no skin absorption; however, it can affect how other chemicals penetrate the skin, so formulators must account for this when combining with other actives.
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Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that prevents bacteria, yeast, and mold from growing in skincare products, helping them stay fresh and safe to use. It has been used safely in cosmetics for decades and is effective at very low concentrations.
Benefits
- Prevents microbial contamination and product spoilage
- Broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity against bacteria and yeast
- Minimal impact on beneficial skin bacteria when used at approved levels
Potential concerns
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals
- May cause irritation if used in products at concentrations above 1%
Science: The European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety considers phenoxyethanol safe for all consumers, including children, at concentrations up to 1%. Adverse effects observed in animal studies required exposure levels approximately 200 times higher than those in cosmetic products, and it is classified as one of the most well-tolerated preservatives in cosmetics.
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Sodium chloride is common table salt, used in skincare products as a texture modifier, preservative, and to help balance formulations. In small amounts, it's generally well-tolerated by skin.
Benefits
- Helps preserve product stability
- Can enhance skin hydration when used in appropriate concentrations
- Improves product texture and consistency
Potential concerns
- High concentrations may irritate sensitive or compromised skin
- Excessive topical salt exposure can potentially disrupt skin barrier function
- May cause dryness or tightness in some individuals
Science: Sodium chloride is a naturally occurring electrolyte essential to skin physiology. Research indicates the skin actively regulates sodium levels through complex mechanisms involving the endothelium, immune cells, and lymphatics; however, peer-reviewed data specifically addressing topical sodium chloride in cosmetic formulations at typical use levels is limited.
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Sodium Hydroxide is a strong alkaline chemical used in skincare products primarily as a pH buffer to neutralize acids and adjust the product's pH to safe levels for skin. It is not an active skincare ingredient and appears only in trace amounts in finished products.
Potential concerns
- In concentrated form, sodium hydroxide is caustic and can cause severe chemical burns; however, in cosmetic products it is diluted and pH-buffered to safe levels
- Undiluted or highly concentrated sodium hydroxide should never contact skin directly
Science: The provided research discusses sodium hydroxide only in a specialized medical context (10% solution for surgical cauterization of ingrown toenails), which is not relevant to cosmetic skincare use. In properly formulated skincare products, sodium hydroxide is used in minimal concentrations solely for pH adjustment and is considered safe by regulatory bodies including the FDA and EU.
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Coco-Betaine is a mild, plant-derived surfactant (cleansing agent) made from coconut oil. It helps cleanse skin and hair by removing oil and dirt, and is often used in gentle formulations because it's less irritating than harsher surfactants.
Benefits
- Gentle cleansing action suitable for sensitive skin
- Plant-derived and considered a more sustainable ingredient
- Can be used in formulations designed for delicate skin types
Potential concerns
- Rare but documented cases of allergic contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals
- May cause irritation or allergic reactions in people with surfactant sensitivities
Science: Coco-Betaine is recognized as a mild surfactant with good biocompatibility and has been successfully used in eco-friendly formulations. However, isolated case reports document allergic contact dermatitis in susceptible individuals, suggesting it is not universally hypoallergenic despite its gentle reputation.
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Acrylates Copolymer is a synthetic polymer that acts as a film-former in skincare products, creating a thin, flexible layer on the skin's surface. It helps products adhere better and can improve the wear-time and finish of formulations.
Benefits
- Creates a smooth, adherent film on skin
- Improves product longevity and wear-time
- Enhances texture and finish of skincare formulations
Potential concerns
- May feel occlusive or slightly sticky on some skin types
- Potential for buildup with repeated layering
- Can cause irritation in individuals with very sensitive skin or acrylic sensitivities
Science: Limited peer-reviewed data available specifically for Acrylates Copolymer as used in skincare. Related polymer safety assessments by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel have generally found similar synthetic polymers safe at typical use concentrations, though individual polymer variants may have varying safety profiles.
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Iron Oxides (CI 77499) is a black pigment derived from iron compounds, commonly used in cosmetics to add color and provide a matte finish. It's a mineral-based colorant that sits on the skin's surface without penetrating deeply, making it a popular choice in foundations, powders, and eyeshadows.
Benefits
- Provides natural black pigmentation for even color coverage
- Creates a matte or natural finish without shine
- Mineral-based alternative to synthetic dyes
Potential concerns
- May cause irritation in people with sensitive skin or iron sensitivities (rare)
- Can potentially clog pores if used in heavy concentrations in acne-prone individuals
- Risk of staining if the product formula is unstable or applied heavily
Science: Iron Oxides are FDA-approved colorants for cosmetic use and have a long history of safe use in skincare and makeup products. Limited peer-reviewed data available specifically for this ingredient, though regulatory bodies have established it as safe for cosmetic applications at typical use levels.
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Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate is a gentle, plant-derived cleanser made from coconut oil and the amino acid glutamate. It removes dirt and oil from skin while maintaining a mild pH, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.
Benefits
- Gentle cleansing action
- Mild and non-stripping
- Suitable for sensitive or reactive skin
Science: Limited peer-reviewed data available for this ingredient. As an amino acid-derived surfactant, it belongs to a class of mild cleansers generally recognized as safe by regulatory bodies and well-tolerated in cosmetic formulations.
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Decyl glucoside is a mild, plant-derived surfactant made from natural fatty alcohols and glucose. It's used in skincare products to cleanse the skin and help other ingredients mix together, and is generally gentler than many traditional detergents.
Benefits
- Mild cleansing action suitable for sensitive skin
- Plant-based and renewable ingredient
- Functions as an effective emulsifier to stabilize formulas
Potential concerns
- Can cause allergic contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals—cases of sensitization have increased since the early 2000s
- May cross-react with other similar glucoside ingredients
- Can be irritating if formulation is not properly balanced
Science: The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel concluded decyl glucoside is safe when used in non-irritating formulations at current concentrations. However, dermatology literature documents a steady rise in allergic contact dermatitis cases, particularly when it appears as a 'hidden' ingredient in sunscreens like Tinosorb M, making patch testing advisable for those with suspected sensitivities.
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Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine is a mild, plant-derived surfactant (cleansing agent) made from coconut oil. It gently cleanses the skin while also helping to condition it and reduce static, making it a versatile ingredient in cleansers and shampoos.
Benefits
- Gentle cleansing without stripping
- Conditioning properties
- Reduces frizz and static
Potential concerns
- May cause contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals
- Potential for irritation at high concentrations
Science: A 2024 expert safety assessment by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel concluded that alkyl sultaines (including this ingredient) are safe in cosmetics at current use levels and concentrations. However, isolated cases of contact dermatitis have been reported in susceptible individuals.
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Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate is a mild, plant-derived surfactant (cleanser) made from coconut oil and the amino acid glutamate. It's used in gentle cleansers and shampoos to remove dirt and oil while being less harsh than traditional detergents.
Benefits
- Gentle cleansing action
- Derived from natural sources (coconut)
- Suitable for sensitive skin types
Science: Limited peer-reviewed data available for this ingredient. As an amino acid-based surfactant, it is generally recognized as mild and well-tolerated, with a safety profile consistent with other acyl glutamates used in personal care products.
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Analysis not yet available for this ingredient.
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Analysis not yet available for this ingredient.
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Charcoal powder is a finely ground form of activated charcoal, a porous carbon material traditionally used for its absorbent properties. In skincare, it's marketed as a pore-cleansing and detoxifying ingredient, though its actual efficacy for skincare purposes is limited compared to established alternatives.
Benefits
- May help absorb excess oil and surface impurities on skin
- Gentle exfoliating texture when used in powder or mask formulations
- Generally well-tolerated by most skin types when used occasionally
Potential concerns
- Can roughen and damage skin surface with repeated use, similar to abrasive scrubs
- May disrupt the skin barrier and alter surface texture if overused
- Claims of 'detoxification' are largely marketing; skin has its own natural detox mechanisms
- No strong evidence it outperforms gentler, established skincare ingredients
Science: Research on activated charcoal in skincare is limited. Studies on dental applications show charcoal can roughen and alter surface properties, raising concerns about similar effects on facial skin. Evidence does not support superior efficacy compared to established alternatives like chemical exfoliants or proven pore-cleansing ingredients.
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Methylisothiazolinone (MI) is a preservative used in skincare and personal care products to prevent bacterial and fungal growth. It helps extend shelf life and maintain product safety during storage and use.
Benefits
- Prevents microbial contamination in products
- Extends product shelf life
- Allows brands to reduce other preservative systems
Potential concerns
- Known contact allergen — can cause allergic contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals
- Rising rates of allergic reactions reported globally, particularly in North America
- May cause itching, redness, or rash on skin; reactions can be delayed and sometimes severe
- Even at standard test concentrations, up to 50% of allergic cases may go undetected initially
Science: Methylisothiazolinone is a well-documented contact allergen responsible for considerable morbidity in the population. It has been regulated in the European Union due to rising allergic reactions, resulting in a significant drop in cases there, though high rates persist in North America. Recent dermatological literature identifies it as a frequent cause of allergic contact dermatitis warranting closer monitoring and stricter regulatory oversight.
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