Ingredients
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Dimethicone is a silicone-based ingredient that forms a smooth, protective layer on your skin. It helps lock in moisture, creates a soft feel, and is commonly used in moisturizers and primers to improve product texture and skin hydration.
Benefits
- Improves skin hydration by creating a moisture-barrier layer
- Provides a smooth, silky feel to products and on skin
- Well-tolerated by sensitive and atopic (eczema-prone) skin
- Non-greasy alternative to heavier oils
Science: Clinical studies demonstrate dimethicone is safe and well-tolerated in children with atopic dermatitis from 12 months of age. Research shows moisturizers containing dimethicone effectively improve skin hydration in mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis patients over 14 days.
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BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene) is a synthetic antioxidant used in skincare products to prevent oils and other ingredients from oxidizing and going rancid. It's used at very low concentrations (0.0002% to 0.5%) to extend shelf life.
Benefits
- Prevents product degradation and extends shelf life
- Keeps formulations stable over time
- Allows use of beneficial oils without them spoiling
Potential concerns
- Can cause skin irritation or allergic reactions in sensitive individuals at higher concentrations
- May cause mild contact sensitization in some people
- Minimal systemic absorption when applied to skin, but oral ingestion studies show potential liver and kidney effects at high doses
Science: The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel concluded BHT is safe as used in cosmetic formulations at typical concentrations. When applied to skin, BHT remains largely in the skin with minimal systemic absorption, unlike oral exposure which showed some toxic effects in animal studies at high doses.
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Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that prevents bacteria, yeast, and mold from growing in skincare products, helping them stay fresh and safe to use. It has been used safely in cosmetics for decades and is effective at very low concentrations.
Benefits
- Prevents microbial contamination and product spoilage
- Broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity against bacteria and yeast
- Minimal impact on beneficial skin bacteria when used at approved levels
Potential concerns
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals
- May cause irritation if used in products at concentrations above 1%
Science: The European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety considers phenoxyethanol safe for all consumers, including children, at concentrations up to 1%. Adverse effects observed in animal studies required exposure levels approximately 200 times higher than those in cosmetic products, and it is classified as one of the most well-tolerated preservatives in cosmetics.
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Tocopherol is a form of vitamin E, a fat-soluble antioxidant that protects skin from damage caused by free radicals and oxidative stress. It helps maintain skin's natural barrier function and is commonly used in skincare products to prevent premature aging and support overall skin health.
Benefits
- Protects skin from free radical damage and oxidative stress
- Supports skin barrier function and moisture retention
- May help reduce signs of aging caused by UV exposure and environmental damage
- Works as a lipid antioxidant to prevent degradation of skin oils
Science: Tocopherol (α-tocopherol) is recognized in peer-reviewed research as a key endogenous defense mechanism against oxidative stress in aging skin, particularly from UV-induced damage. Studies confirm it functions as a lipid-soluble antioxidant capable of preventing lipid peroxidation, with established efficacy in cosmetic and therapeutic applications.
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Phenyl Trimethicone is a silicone-based ingredient that creates a smooth, invisible coating on skin and hair. It's primarily used to enhance shine, improve texture, and create a polished appearance while providing a lightweight, non-greasy feel.
Benefits
- Enhances skin and hair shine and luster
- Smooths surface texture for a polished look
- Lightweight and non-greasy feel
- Long-lasting coverage that resists wear and moisture
Potential concerns
- May not be suitable for acne-prone skin if used in occlusive products, as silicones can trap bacteria and sebum
- Buildup possible with repeated use if not properly cleansed
- Not ideal for those seeking fully natural skincare
Science: Research confirms phenyl trimethicone effectively reduces hair surface irregularities and enhances visible shine, with instrumental measurements correlating well with consumer perception. Safety profile is generally favorable for cosmetic use, though long-term skin studies are limited.
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Alumina is a fine powder form of aluminum oxide, a naturally occurring mineral. In skincare, it functions as a gentle abrasive, absorbent, and bulking agent that helps absorb excess oil and improve product texture.
Benefits
- Gently exfoliates dead skin cells
- Absorbs excess oil and sebum
- Improves product texture and feel
Science: The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel concluded that alumina is safe as used in cosmetics at current concentrations. Occupational exposure studies show alumina dust in industrial settings has not been associated with significant lung damage or cancer, and the form used in cosmetics is essentially the same as that approved for medical devices.
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Titanium dioxide is a naturally occurring mineral that works as a physical UV filter and opacifying agent in skincare products. It sits on the skin's surface and reflects and scatters UV rays to provide broad-spectrum sun protection, and is also commonly used in foundations and powders to create coverage and a matte finish.
Benefits
- Provides broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection
- Physical (non-chemical) sun filter suitable for sensitive skin
- Helps create opaque, matte finishes in makeup and tinted products
Potential concerns
- May leave a white cast on darker skin tones due to its opacity
- Can feel slightly heavy or occlusive on very oily skin types
- Rarely, inhalation of airborne powder particles may be a concern in occupational settings, though not in typical consumer use
Science: Titanium dioxide has a long history of safe use in cosmetics and is approved by the FDA, EU, and other major regulatory bodies as a sunscreen active ingredient. It is considered non-toxic and non-penetrating when applied topically in skincare products.
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Silica is a mineral powder derived from silicon dioxide that's commonly used in skincare and makeup products. It works primarily as a texture enhancer and absorbent, helping to mattify skin, improve product feel, and absorb excess oil.
Benefits
- Mattifies skin and reduces shine
- Improves product texture and spreadability
- Absorbs excess sebum and moisture
- Creates a smooth, refined appearance
Potential concerns
- When used as nanoparticles, potential for skin penetration remains under study
- Inhalation of silica powder (primarily occupational concern) has known health risks; topical use in cosmetics is considered lower risk
- Listed among potential carcinogenic substances in cosmetic formulations, though safe use levels and regulatory limits are established in the EU and US
Science: A 2023 review of European facial cosmetics identified silica among potential carcinogenic ingredients present in commercial products, though this reflects presence rather than proven harm at typical use concentrations. Research on silica nanoparticles suggests they are being developed for cosmetic use, but percutaneous penetration and long-term safety data remain limited. Regulatory agencies (EU, FDA) have established safe concentration limits for cosmetic use.
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Squalane is a lightweight, skin-identical oil derived from squalene (a natural component of human sebum). It absorbs easily into the skin to lock in moisture and create a smooth, soft feel without leaving a greasy residue.
Benefits
- Hydrates and moisturizes skin
- Mimics skin's natural oils for better compatibility
- Lightweight emollient that doesn't clog pores
- Antioxidant properties
- Well-tolerated by most skin types
Science: The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel confirmed squalane is safe for cosmetic use at typical concentrations (2023). Research demonstrates skin hydrating and emollient activity, and squalane is naturally present in human sebum at ~13%, making it biocompatible with skin.
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Hydrogenated polyisobutene is a lightweight oil derived from petroleum that works as an emollient (skin softener) and film-former in skincare products. It helps lock moisture into the skin and creates a smooth, non-greasy feel on application.
Benefits
- Improves skin hydration by reducing water loss from the skin surface
- Creates a smooth, pleasant skin texture with minimal greasiness
- Long-lasting moisturizing effect compared to some alternative emollients
- May provide subtle skin-tightening and smoothing effects when combined with certain polymers
Potential concerns
- Petroleum-derived ingredient; may not appeal to consumers seeking natural products
- Occlusive nature means it may feel heavy or cause buildup on very oily skin types
Science: Clinical studies demonstrate that hydrogenated polyisobutene effectively reduces transepidermal water loss (skin dehydration) by up to 33% and maintains this effect for several hours. When formulated with certain polymers, it contributes to measurable improvements in skin firmness and wrinkle appearance in aging skin.
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Stearic acid is a naturally occurring fatty acid commonly derived from plant or animal sources. In skincare products, it functions as an emollient and emulsifier, helping to soften skin, improve product texture, and stabilize formulations by allowing oil and water to mix together.
Benefits
- Softens and moisturizes skin by forming a protective barrier
- Improves product texture and stability
- Helps other active ingredients penetrate the skin more effectively
Potential concerns
- May cause mild irritation or sensitivity in people with very sensitive skin
- Can leave a slight waxy residue if used in high concentrations
Science: Research indicates stearic acid acts as a permeation enhancer, potentially improving how active ingredients cross the skin barrier. It is well-established in cosmetic formulation design and has a strong safety history in topical products.
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Triethoxycaprylylsilane is a silicone-based coating agent used to modify the surface of pigments (like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) in cosmetic formulations. It makes pigments more compatible with cosmetic formulas and can improve product texture and stability.
Benefits
- Improves pigment dispersion in formulations
- Enhances product stability and texture
- Reduces pigment clumping in finished products
Potential concerns
- Limited safety data available for direct skin exposure
- Inhalation toxicity concerns noted in occupational settings with nanoparticles
Science: Available research focuses on triethoxycaprylylsilane as a coating on zinc oxide and titanium dioxide nanoparticles in occupational inhalation studies, not topical skincare use. In cosmetic formulations, this ingredient functions as a surface modifier for pigments and is not typically absorbed through intact skin in meaningful amounts.
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Iron Oxides (CI 77492) is a naturally derived colorant that gives products a yellow or earth-tone pigment. It's commonly used in foundations, powders, and tinted skincare products to create color and is considered a mineral pigment safe for use on skin.
Benefits
- Provides natural, stable color to skincare and makeup products
- Mineral-based alternative to synthetic dyes
- Generally well-tolerated by most skin types including sensitive skin
Science: Iron Oxides are approved colorants by regulatory bodies including the FDA and EU cosmetics regulations. Limited peer-reviewed data available specifically for this ingredient, but it has a long history of safe use in cosmetics with minimal reports of adverse reactions.
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Tribehenin is a natural oil derived from behenic acid (a fatty acid) and glycerin. It works as an emollient and occlusive agent, helping to soften skin and lock in moisture by forming a protective layer on the skin's surface.
Benefits
- Moisturizes and conditions skin
- Helps reduce water loss from skin
- Creates a smooth, soft skin feel
Science: The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel assessed tribehenin as part of a broader safety evaluation of glyceryl triesters and concluded these ingredients are safe for use in cosmetics. Dermal absorption is minimal, irritation risk is low, and no sensitization or photosensitization concerns were identified in animal testing.
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Polyethylene is a synthetic plastic polymer used in skincare products as a thickening agent, emollient, and texture modifier. It creates a smooth, spreadable consistency and helps bind ingredients together in formulations.
Benefits
- Creates smooth, pleasant texture in creams and lotions
- Helps stabilize and thicken product formulations
- Provides a protective barrier on skin surface
Potential concerns
- Poor biodegradability — persists in the environment and may accumulate over time
- Not derived from renewable sources, contributing to plastic waste
- Microplastic concern if used in products that wash down drains
Science: Research indicates polyethylene shows poor environmental biodegradability and does not meet emerging sustainability criteria for topical skincare products. While safe for skin contact, dermatological literature increasingly recommends plant-based alternatives (such as plant waxes and biopolymers) to reduce environmental impact.
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Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate is a synthetic emollient and thickening agent derived from stearic acid. It helps bind water and oil together in formulas while creating a smooth, non-greasy feel on skin.
Benefits
- Improves product texture and spreadability
- Provides lightweight moisturizing without heaviness
- Helps stabilize emulsions and prevent separation
Science: Limited peer-reviewed data available for this ingredient. It is derived from naturally-occurring stearic acid and is well-tolerated in cosmetic formulations at typical use levels, with no established sensitization concerns in the broader literature on similar synthetic esters.
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Iron oxides are naturally occurring mineral pigments used in skincare products primarily for color and sun protection. They work by reflecting and absorbing visible light, making them especially useful in tinted sunscreens to protect darker skin tones from light-induced hyperpigmentation.
Benefits
- Protects against visible light, which can trigger darkening in darker skin tones and those prone to melasma
- Provides color coverage in tinted sunscreens, making them more wearable and encouraging consistent use
- Helps manage hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory discoloration when combined with UV filters
Science: Research confirms iron oxides are effective visible light blockers in tinted sunscreens for managing hyperpigmentation, particularly benefiting skin of color. However, most commercial products don't clearly label iron oxide content, and standardized reporting of concentrations remains lacking in the industry.
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Talc is a naturally occurring mineral powder used in cosmetics primarily as an absorbent and anti-caking agent. It helps reduce shine, absorb moisture, and improve the texture and spreadability of powdered products like foundations, blushes, and body powders.
Benefits
- Absorbs excess oil and moisture on skin
- Improves product texture and application
- Reduces shine and mattifies skin
Potential concerns
- Cosmetic talc has been associated with asbestos contamination in some cases; prolonged inhalation exposure may pose health risks, particularly for regular heavy users
- May cause respiratory irritation if inhaled as powder
- Talc particles can accumulate in lungs with chronic exposure
Science: Research indicates that cosmetic talc can contain asbestos contamination, and prolonged cumulative exposure has been linked to mesothelioma, particularly in individuals with heavy or prolonged use. A 2024 systematic review examined 77 epidemiological studies on talc and cancer risk across multiple exposure types and cancer sites, though methodological limitations exist in much of the literature. Modern cosmetic talc in regulated markets is typically talc-only without intentional asbestos, but historical contamination and inhalation exposure remain documented concerns.
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Isodecyl Neopentanoate is a lightweight synthetic oil used as an emollient and texture enhancer in skincare products. It helps create a smooth, non-greasy feel while improving how products spread across the skin and absorb.
Benefits
- Creates a smooth, silky skin feel
- Helps products absorb without a heavy, oily residue
- Improves product spreadability and application
Science: Limited peer-reviewed data available for this ingredient. As a synthetic ester commonly used in cosmetics, it is considered safe by major regulatory bodies including the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) and has a long history of use with no documented sensitization concerns in typical skincare formulations.
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Polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) is a synthetic plastic polymer used in skincare primarily as a film-forming agent in injectable fillers for facial rejuvenation. It works by providing structural support to sagging skin and can stimulate collagen production over time. This ingredient is not typically found in topical skincare products like serums or moisturizers.
Benefits
- Provides immediate volume and lift to areas like the jawline and chin
- Results can last several months to years depending on the formulation
- Minimally invasive compared to surgical alternatives
- May stimulate the body's natural collagen production for longer-term skin firmness
Potential concerns
- Requires professional injection—not suitable for at-home use
- Potential for allergic reactions, inflammation, or granuloma formation at injection sites
- Risk of lumps, asymmetry, or migration if not administered properly
- Not recommended for pregnant or nursing individuals
- Results are temporary and require repeat treatments for maintenance
Science: PMMA is recognized in medical literature as an established injectable filler for facial rejuvenation with a documented safety profile when used by trained professionals. The research indicates it is effective for jawline and chin augmentation with manageable risk profiles, though long-term safety data and comparison studies remain limited in peer-reviewed literature.
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