Ingredients
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Caprylyl glycol is a preservative and skin-conditioning ingredient derived from coconut oil. It helps prevent bacterial and mold growth in skincare products while also providing mild hydrating and humectant benefits to the skin.
Benefits
- Helps preserve product freshness and prevent contamination
- Provides gentle humectant properties to help retain skin moisture
- Often used as a gentler alternative to traditional preservatives
Potential concerns
- Rare cases of allergic contact dermatitis have been reported in sensitive individuals
- May cause irritation in those with known sensitivity to glycols
Science: A 200-subject repeat patch test study found no delayed hypersensitivity reactions to caprylyl glycol at typical use concentrations. However, isolated case reports of allergic contact dermatitis exist, suggesting it can act as an allergen in susceptible individuals. It is widely used in infant and sensitive-skin formulations as a preservative alternative.
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Hexylene glycol is a lightweight humectant and preservative booster used in skincare products to help retain moisture and improve product stability. It also enhances the penetration of other active ingredients into the skin.
Benefits
- Helps skin retain moisture
- Improves product texture and spreadability
- Enhances effectiveness of preservative systems
Potential concerns
- May cause mild irritation or redness in sensitive individuals (occurs in roughly 3% of eczema-prone skin)
- Potential for delayed allergic contact reactions in susceptible people, though this is uncommon
- Less irritating than propylene glycol under occlusion, but still worth avoiding if you have known sensitivities to glycols
Science: A 1989 study found hexylene glycol caused visible skin reactions in 2.8% of eczema patients at high concentrations (30-50%), with potential for delayed allergic sensitization in rare cases. It was less irritating than propylene glycol. One case report mentions hexylene glycol as a potential allergen in medical formulations, though reactions are uncommon at typical cosmetic concentrations.
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Potassium sorbate is a preservative used in skincare products to prevent the growth of mold, yeast, and some bacteria, helping extend shelf life. It's a salt derived from sorbic acid and is commonly used as a gentler alternative to stronger chemical preservatives.
Benefits
- Prevents microbial contamination and mold growth
- Generally considered milder than some other preservatives like benzalkonium chloride
- Allows products to remain effective longer without refrigeration
Potential concerns
- May cause irritation or allergic contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals
- Not suitable for preservative-free formulations
- Limited effectiveness against some bacteria compared to stronger preservatives
Science: Clinical research suggests potassium sorbate is less damaging to delicate tissues than benzalkonium chloride, making it a preferred alternative preservative in sensitive applications like eye products. However, peer-reviewed safety data specific to topical skincare use in the general population is limited.
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Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that prevents bacteria, yeast, and mold from growing in skincare products, helping them stay fresh and safe to use. It has been used safely in cosmetics for decades and is effective at very low concentrations.
Benefits
- Prevents microbial contamination and product spoilage
- Broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity against bacteria and yeast
- Minimal impact on beneficial skin bacteria when used at approved levels
Potential concerns
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals
- May cause irritation if used in products at concentrations above 1%
Science: The European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety considers phenoxyethanol safe for all consumers, including children, at concentrations up to 1%. Adverse effects observed in animal studies required exposure levels approximately 200 times higher than those in cosmetic products, and it is classified as one of the most well-tolerated preservatives in cosmetics.
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Yellow 5 (also called Tartrazine) is a synthetic yellow dye used to color skincare products. It has no active skincare benefits and serves purely to make products visually appealing.
Potential concerns
- May cause allergic reactions or sensitivity in people with tartrazine intolerance
- Can trigger reactions in individuals with aspirin sensitivity
- Potential for contact dermatitis in sensitive skin types
Science: Yellow 5 is approved by major regulatory bodies (FDA, EU) as a cosmetic colorant at specified concentrations. Limited peer-reviewed data exists on its dermatological effects, though it is generally considered safe at approved levels; however, some individuals report sensitivity reactions.
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Panthenol is a lightweight humectant derived from pantothenic acid (vitamin B5) that draws moisture into the skin and helps maintain hydration. It also supports the skin barrier and can help soothe irritation, making it a popular choice in products designed for sensitive or compromised skin.
Benefits
- Hydrates and moisturizes the skin
- Helps calm and soothe irritated or sensitive skin
- Supports skin barrier function and repair
- Lightweight and non-greasy
Science: Panthenol is one of the few ingredients in sensitive skin formulations with clinical evidence specifically tested on volunteers with sensitive skin. Research confirms it reduces skin inflammation and supports barrier function, though comprehensive clinical studies on this ingredient remain limited compared to some alternatives.
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Ethoxydiglycol is a clear, colorless liquid used in skincare formulations as a humectant and penetration enhancer. It helps other active ingredients absorb more effectively into the skin while also drawing moisture into the skin's outer layers.
Benefits
- Enhances absorption of active ingredients into skin
- Humectant properties help skin retain moisture
- Improves solubility of certain actives in formulations
- Lightweight feel and quick absorption
Science: Research shows ethoxydiglycol significantly increases skin permeation of topical actives—one study found it boosted transdermal delivery by 6.3-fold compared to standard vehicles. It is recognized as a safe cosmetic ingredient with a long history of use, though peer-reviewed human safety data specific to this ingredient is limited.
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Propylene glycol is a lightweight humectant and solvent commonly used in skincare formulations. It helps draw moisture into the skin and improves the texture and spreadability of products.
Benefits
- Hydrates skin by attracting and retaining moisture
- Enhances product texture and makes formulas easier to apply
- Helps active ingredients penetrate the skin more effectively
- Improves stability and shelf life of formulations
Potential concerns
- May cause contact dermatitis or irritation in sensitive individuals
- Can occasionally trigger allergic reactions in susceptible people
- High concentrations may feel sticky or heavy on some skin types
Science: Research confirms propylene glycol acts as a penetration enhancer in topical formulations, improving skin uptake of active ingredients. The ingredient is widely studied and considered safe at typical cosmetic concentrations, though individual sensitivity varies.
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Jojoba seed oil is a natural oil extracted from jojoba plant seeds that closely mimics the skin's natural sebum. It's commonly used in skincare to moisturize, balance oil production, and improve skin texture without leaving a heavy residue.
Benefits
- Lightweight moisturization
- Helps balance oily and dry skin
- Rich in vitamin E and antioxidants
- Generally non-comedogenic (unlikely to clog pores)
Potential concerns
- Rare allergic reactions in sensitive individuals
- May not be suitable for very acne-prone skin in high concentrations
Science: Jojoba oil has a long history of safe use in cosmetics and is well-tolerated by most skin types. Limited peer-reviewed data available for this specific ingredient, but extensive industry experience and anecdotal evidence support its safety and efficacy as a natural moisturizer.
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Cucumber fruit extract is a plant-derived ingredient made from pressed or fermented cucumber. It's lightweight and contains natural compounds like vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that can help soothe and hydrate skin.
Benefits
- Hydrating and refreshing
- May help soothe mild irritation or redness
- Light antioxidant properties
Science: Limited peer-reviewed data available for this ingredient. Cucumber is generally recognized as very safe in cosmetics and has a long history of traditional use in skincare, though specific efficacy claims lack robust clinical support.
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Yellow 6 is a synthetic colorant approved for use in cosmetics that gives products a yellow or golden hue. It serves purely an aesthetic purpose and has no active skincare benefits—it's added solely to make products visually appealing.
Potential concerns
- May cause allergic reactions or sensitivity in people with dye sensitivities
- Potential contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals
- Azo dye—some people prefer to avoid synthetic colorants on principle
Science: Yellow 6 (Tartrazine) is approved by regulatory bodies including the FDA and EU for cosmetic use at specified concentrations. Limited peer-reviewed dermatological data exists, but documented cases of colorant-related contact sensitization are rare in cosmetics. It is generally considered safe for topical use in the concentrations used in skincare products.
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Red 33 is a synthetic colorant (also called Amaranth) used to give skincare products a red or pink tint. It serves no active skincare benefit and is purely for aesthetic appeal—it colors the product so it looks attractive to consumers.
Potential concerns
- May cause allergic reactions or sensitivity in people with dye sensitivities
- Can stain skin or clothing if product is heavily pigmented
- Restricted or banned in some countries (including the US for food, though allowed in cosmetics in some regions)
Science: Limited peer-reviewed data available for this ingredient. Red 33 is a well-established synthetic dye with a long history of use in cosmetics; regulatory bodies like the EU have approved it for color purposes, though its safety status varies by region and application.
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Coconut oil is a natural fat extracted from coconut fruit, composed primarily of saturated oils. In skincare, it acts as a moisturizer and skin conditioner, helping to soften and hydrate the skin.
Benefits
- Moisturizes and conditions the skin
- May support skin barrier repair
- Possesses antimicrobial and antioxidant properties
- Generally accessible and affordable
Potential concerns
- High in oleic acid, which may be irritating or potentially disrupt the skin barrier in some individuals
- Comedogenic for some people — may clog pores and trigger breakouts
- May cause contact dermatitis or allergic reactions in sensitive individuals
Science: Coconut oil is deemed safe as a cosmetic ingredient by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel. However, research indicates that oils with higher oleic acid content (like coconut oil) have weaker barrier-repair benefits compared to oils with higher linoleic acid ratios, and may even be detrimental to skin barrier function in some cases.
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Blue 1 (also called Brilliant Blue) is a synthetic colorant used to give skincare products a blue tint or hue. It serves no active skincare benefit and is purely for visual appeal and product identification.
Potential concerns
- May cause contact dermatitis or allergic reactions in sensitive individuals
- Not recommended for those with dye sensitivities or certain food/cosmetic allergies
Science: Blue 1 is approved by the FDA and EU for cosmetic use and has a long safety history as a food and cosmetic colorant. Limited peer-reviewed data specific to skincare applications, but regulatory bodies consider it safe at approved concentrations for topical use.
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Grape seed oil is a lightweight plant oil extracted from grape seeds, rich in antioxidants and fatty acids. It's used in skincare to moisturize, protect skin from environmental damage, and improve skin texture without leaving a heavy residue.
Benefits
- Moisturizes and softens skin
- Contains antioxidants that may help protect against free radical damage
- Lightweight texture suitable for oily and combination skin types
Potential concerns
- May cause allergic reactions in people with grape sensitivities
- Can potentially clog pores in acne-prone individuals at high concentrations
Science: Grape seed oil is well-established in cosmetic use and generally recognized as safe. Limited peer-reviewed data is available specifically for its skincare efficacy, though it contains proanthocyanidins and linoleic acid, compounds associated with antioxidant and skin-conditioning properties.
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Algin is a natural thickening and gelling ingredient derived from brown seaweed that helps create a smooth, gel-like texture in skincare products. In cosmetics, it's primarily used as a stabilizer and texture enhancer rather than for direct skin benefits.
Benefits
- Creates a smooth, spreadable texture in formulations
- Helps stabilize product consistency
- Natural origin from seaweed
Science: Limited peer-reviewed data available for algin in cosmetic skincare applications. The ingredient has a long history of safe use in food and pharmaceutical products as a thickener and is well-tolerated topically.
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Water is the primary ingredient in most skincare products, serving as a base that dissolves and carries other active ingredients. It hydrates the skin surface and helps other beneficial compounds penetrate effectively.
Benefits
- Hydrates and plumps the skin
- Helps deliver other skincare ingredients
- Essential solvent for product formulation
Science: Water is a fundamental component of skin physiology and cosmetic formulations. No safety concerns exist for topical application; it is non-irritating and universally safe for all skin types.
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Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is a 3-carbon sugar approved by the FDA as a color additive for sunless tanning products. When applied to skin, it reacts with proteins in the outer layer to produce a temporary brown tan-like color that develops over a few hours.
Benefits
- Creates a tan appearance without sun exposure
- Temporary effect that washes off with soap and water
- Allows customization of tan depth depending on product concentration
Potential concerns
- Should not contact eyes, lips, or mucous membranes
- Inhalation of spray-tan mist is not FDA-approved and should be avoided
- May cause streaking or uneven coloring if not applied evenly
Science: DHA has been used safely in topical tanning products since the 1960s. It works by binding to free amino groups in skin proteins, particularly arginine, to create the brown color. Current research suggests DHA staining may have diagnostic applications in dermatology for identifying skin lesions.
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Erythrulose is a naturally derived sugar that works as a self-tanning agent. Like DHA (dihydroxyacetone), it reacts with amino acids in your skin to create a brown color, but it typically develops more slowly and may last slightly longer than DHA alone.
Benefits
- Creates a gradual, natural-looking tan without sun exposure
- Often used alongside DHA to extend tan duration and improve color evenness
- Generally well-tolerated with low irritation potential
- Semi-permanent color that fades as skin naturally sheds dead cells
Potential concerns
- May cause contact dermatitis or allergic reactions in sensitive individuals
- Can cause unwanted pigmentary changes or streaking if not applied evenly
- Provides no UV protection—sunscreen use is still essential
Science: Erythrulose is used in approximately 38% of commercial self-tanning products, typically combined with DHA. It works through the same Maillard reaction mechanism as DHA, producing brown pigments (melanoidins) that deposit in the outer skin layer. Clinical data on adverse effects show self-tanners overall have a low incidence of skin reactions (roughly 2%), though contact dermatitis remains a possible concern in susceptible individuals.
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Caramel is a brown coloring and flavoring agent made by heating sugars, commonly used in cosmetics for its warm brown pigmentation. In skincare products, it primarily serves as a colorant and may provide mild antioxidant properties from its sugar-derived compounds.
Benefits
- Provides natural-looking brown coloration
- Antioxidant properties from caramelized sugars
Potential concerns
- May attract or support microbial growth if water content is present in formulation
- Potential for irritation in products with high sugar concentration
- Not recommended for acne-prone skin as it may feed bacteria
Science: Limited peer-reviewed data available for caramel's safety in topical skincare applications. Available research focuses on caramel in food products, where it can create microenvironments supporting bacterial growth under specific moisture conditions—a consideration relevant to product preservation but not direct skin safety.
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Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate is a gentle surfactant (cleaning agent) derived from coconut oil and amino acids. It's commonly used in facial cleansers to remove dirt and oil from skin while being milder than many traditional detergents.
Benefits
- Effective at cleansing without excessive harshness
- Derived from natural sources (coconut oil-based)
- Gentler alternative to sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)
Potential concerns
- May alter skin's bacterial balance and reduce microbial diversity with regular use
- Can disrupt skin lipids (fats), particularly ceramides which support skin barrier health
- Rare cases of allergic contact dermatitis reported in sensitive individuals
Science: Recent research (2024) found that sodium lauroyl sarcosinate in facial cleansers reduced beneficial skin bacteria diversity and decreased protective ceramides while increasing certain lipids, suggesting potential long-term impacts on skin barrier health. It has a documented safety history, though allergic reactions are possible in sensitized individuals.
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Avocado oil is a plant-based oil extracted from the fruit of the avocado tree. It's rich in fatty acids and vitamin E, making it a nourishing emollient that helps soften and hydrate the skin while improving the texture of skincare formulations.
Benefits
- Deep moisturization and skin softening
- Rich in antioxidants and vitamin E
- Helps improve skin barrier function
Potential concerns
- May cause comedogenic reactions in acne-prone individuals
- Possible allergic contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals
- Can leave a greasy residue if used in high concentrations
Science: Limited peer-reviewed data available for this ingredient. General knowledge suggests avocado oil is well-tolerated in cosmetic applications, though individual sensitivity varies depending on skin type and formulation concentration.
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PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides is a synthetic emulsifier and solvent derived from plant oils and polyethylene glycol. It helps blend water and oil-based ingredients together and can improve how active ingredients penetrate and are delivered to the skin.
Benefits
- Enhances delivery of skincare actives to skin layers
- Improves product texture and stability by blending ingredients
- Helps formulations penetrate through hair follicles and skin
Science: Research shows PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides effectively acts as a surfactant in microemulsion formulations, improving penetration of active ingredients while maintaining neutral skin compatibility. Studies indicate it primarily enhances dermal delivery (staying in skin layers) rather than systemic absorption, making it suitable for topical skincare applications.
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Red 40 is a synthetic colorant used to give skincare products a red or pink hue. It has no active skincare benefits and is included purely for visual appeal and product identification.
Potential concerns
- May cause allergic reactions or contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals
- Azo dye that some people prefer to avoid
- Not necessary for product efficacy
Science: Red 40 (Tartrazine alternative, FD&C Red No. 40) is approved for cosmetic use in most countries including the US (FDA) and EU. Limited peer-reviewed data specific to topical skincare applications, but extensive safety data from food and drug use shows it is generally well-tolerated. Some individuals with dye sensitivities may experience reactions.
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Tapioca starch is a fine powder extracted from cassava root that acts as a natural absorbent and texture modifier in skincare products. It helps absorb excess moisture and oil while creating a smooth, mattifying finish on the skin.
Benefits
- Absorbs excess oil and moisture for a matte finish
- Creates a smooth, silky texture in formulations
- Gentle, plant-derived alternative to synthetic powders
Science: Tapioca starch has been confirmed as non-toxic in OECD-recommended safety models for both aquatic and terrestrial organisms. It is widely recognized as a safe, food-grade ingredient with a long history of use in personal care products.
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PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate is a gentle, plant-derived emulsifier made from coconut oil and glycerin. It helps blend oil and water-based ingredients together in formulas, creating smooth, stable textures while also providing mild cleansing properties.
Benefits
- Helps stabilize product texture and consistency
- Provides gentle cleansing without stripping skin
- Allows better mixing of different skincare ingredients
Science: Limited peer-reviewed data available for this ingredient. As a PEG-derived emulsifier from natural sources, it is generally recognized as safe in cosmetic formulations and has a long history of use in personal care products.
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Rosehip fruit oil is a plant-based oil extracted from the seeds and fruit of the wild rose plant (Rosa Canina). It's rich in fatty acids and vitamin A, and is commonly used in skincare products to hydrate, nourish, and support the skin's natural barrier.
Benefits
- Moisturizes and hydrates dry skin
- May help improve skin texture and appearance of fine lines
- Contains antioxidants and vitamins that support skin health
Potential concerns
- May cause sensitivity or irritation in those with rose allergies
- Can oxidize and become rancid if not properly stored, potentially causing irritation
Science: Limited peer-reviewed data available for this ingredient. Traditional use suggests benefits for skin hydration and wound healing, but clinical evidence in modern skincare formulations remains limited.
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Tocopheryl acetate is a stable, oil-soluble form of vitamin E commonly used in skincare. It works as an antioxidant to help protect skin from environmental damage and may help maintain skin moisture.
Benefits
- Antioxidant protection against free radicals
- May help reduce signs of aging
- Supports skin hydration and barrier function
Potential concerns
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals
- May cause mild irritation at high concentrations
Science: Tocopheryl acetate is widely used and generally recognized as safe in cosmetics. It's a stable derivative of vitamin E that the skin can convert to active vitamin E, supporting antioxidant benefits, though direct peer-reviewed efficacy studies specifically on this ester are limited compared to unesterified vitamin E.
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Ascorbic acid is a form of vitamin C, a potent antioxidant that helps protect skin from environmental damage and supports collagen production. It's commonly used in serums and treatments to brighten skin tone and improve overall skin texture.
Benefits
- Antioxidant protection against free radicals and environmental stressors
- May help reduce the appearance of fine lines and improve skin firmness
- Can brighten dull skin and promote a more even complexion
- Supports natural collagen synthesis for stronger skin structure
Potential concerns
- Can be irritating to sensitive skin, especially at high concentrations
- Unstable ingredient that degrades quickly when exposed to air or light
- May cause mild redness, tingling, or sensitivity in some users
- Requires careful formulation to maintain effectiveness
Science: Scientific evidence supports vitamin C's role in collagen synthesis and antioxidant protection. Research also suggests ascorbic acid may help reduce bruising, though this has primarily been studied in medical contexts rather than cosmetic skincare applications.
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