Ingredients
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Glycerin is a naturally derived humectant—a ingredient that draws moisture from the air into your skin. It's one of the most widely used and well-studied moisturizing agents in skincare, helping skin feel softer and more hydrated.
Benefits
- Attracts and retains moisture in the skin
- Improves skin hydration and softness
- Helps strengthen skin barrier function
- Suitable for most skin types, including sensitive skin
Science: The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel concluded glycerin is safe as used in cosmetics across all concentrations. Research shows glycerin effectively improves skin hydration and is well-tolerated with minimal irritation risk. It is also referenced in clinical guidelines for managing inflammatory skin conditions and maintaining skin integrity.
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This is a thickening and stabilizing agent that helps give skincare products their texture and consistency. It works by absorbing water and forming a gel-like network, making products feel smooth and creamy on the skin without leaving a greasy residue.
Benefits
- Creates smooth, pleasant product texture
- Helps stabilize emulsions and prevent separation
- Allows for lightweight formulations that don't feel heavy
Science: Limited peer-reviewed data available for this ingredient. It is widely used in cosmetics and generally recognized as safe by regulatory bodies including the CosIng database and is approved for use in the EU and US.
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Hexylene glycol is a lightweight humectant and preservative booster used in skincare products to help retain moisture and improve product stability. It also enhances the penetration of other active ingredients into the skin.
Benefits
- Helps skin retain moisture
- Improves product texture and spreadability
- Enhances effectiveness of preservative systems
Potential concerns
- May cause mild irritation or redness in sensitive individuals (occurs in roughly 3% of eczema-prone skin)
- Potential for delayed allergic contact reactions in susceptible people, though this is uncommon
- Less irritating than propylene glycol under occlusion, but still worth avoiding if you have known sensitivities to glycols
Science: A 1989 study found hexylene glycol caused visible skin reactions in 2.8% of eczema patients at high concentrations (30-50%), with potential for delayed allergic sensitization in rare cases. It was less irritating than propylene glycol. One case report mentions hexylene glycol as a potential allergen in medical formulations, though reactions are uncommon at typical cosmetic concentrations.
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Citric acid is a naturally occurring organic acid commonly used in skincare products as an exfoliant and pH balancer. It belongs to a group of ingredients called alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) that help remove dead skin cells from the surface.
Benefits
- Gentle exfoliation to improve skin texture and appearance
- Helps reduce the appearance of keratosis and acne
- Balances product pH to maintain skin compatibility
Potential concerns
- Can cause irritation, redness, or sensitivity in some users, especially with prolonged or frequent use
- May increase sun sensitivity — sunscreen use is recommended when using AHA products
- Not suitable for very sensitive or compromised skin without caution
Science: Citric acid is an established AHA used in cosmetics for superficial peeling and skin appearance improvement, though research emphasizes that caution should be exercised due to potential adverse reactions. It is widely produced industrially and well-established in skincare formulations.
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Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent that binds to metals and minerals in skincare formulations, helping to preserve product stability and extend shelf life. It's used in small amounts (typically under 2%) to prevent unwanted chemical reactions that could degrade the formula.
Benefits
- Stabilizes cosmetic formulations by binding trace metals
- Extends product shelf life and maintains efficacy
- Allows other skincare ingredients to work more effectively
Potential concerns
- May increase skin penetration of other ingredients by chelating calcium in the skin barrier—only a concern if combined with potentially harmful substances
- Not absorbed through skin in normal use, but inhalation from sprays was identified as a theoretical concern in safety assessments
Science: The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel confirmed safety in 2023 based on standard use concentrations. Clinical studies show no skin absorption; however, it can affect how other chemicals penetrate the skin, so formulators must account for this when combining with other actives.
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Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that prevents bacteria, yeast, and mold from growing in skincare products, helping them stay fresh and safe to use. It has been used safely in cosmetics for decades and is effective at very low concentrations.
Benefits
- Prevents microbial contamination and product spoilage
- Broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity against bacteria and yeast
- Minimal impact on beneficial skin bacteria when used at approved levels
Potential concerns
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals
- May cause irritation if used in products at concentrations above 1%
Science: The European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety considers phenoxyethanol safe for all consumers, including children, at concentrations up to 1%. Adverse effects observed in animal studies required exposure levels approximately 200 times higher than those in cosmetic products, and it is classified as one of the most well-tolerated preservatives in cosmetics.
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Aminomethyl Propanol (AMP) is a pH buffer and preservative used in skincare formulations to maintain product stability and prevent microbial growth. It helps keep products at a safe pH level while extending shelf life.
Benefits
- Helps preserve product and prevent bacterial contamination
- Balances pH to prevent irritation
- Allows brands to reduce reliance on traditional preservatives
Potential concerns
- May interact with amino acids naturally present in skin (taurine), potentially affecting biological function—though significance in topical skincare remains unclear
- Can cause contact dermatitis or irritation in sensitive individuals
- Limited safety data for use in products for infants and very sensitive skin
Science: Recent research (2024) suggests AMP forms hydrogen bonds with taurine, an important amino acid in the body, which could affect its biological functions—though this was studied in controlled laboratory conditions and the relevance to topical skincare exposure is not yet established. AMP is increasingly used as a preservative alternative in cosmetics, including infant formulations, but dermatologists note it may pose irritation risks for sensitive populations.
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Propylene glycol is a lightweight humectant and solvent commonly used in skincare formulations. It helps draw moisture into the skin and improves the texture and spreadability of products.
Benefits
- Hydrates skin by attracting and retaining moisture
- Enhances product texture and makes formulas easier to apply
- Helps active ingredients penetrate the skin more effectively
- Improves stability and shelf life of formulations
Potential concerns
- May cause contact dermatitis or irritation in sensitive individuals
- Can occasionally trigger allergic reactions in susceptible people
- High concentrations may feel sticky or heavy on some skin types
Science: Research confirms propylene glycol acts as a penetration enhancer in topical formulations, improving skin uptake of active ingredients. The ingredient is widely studied and considered safe at typical cosmetic concentrations, though individual sensitivity varies.
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Cucumber fruit extract is a plant-derived ingredient made from pressed or fermented cucumber. It's lightweight and contains natural compounds like vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that can help soothe and hydrate skin.
Benefits
- Hydrating and refreshing
- May help soothe mild irritation or redness
- Light antioxidant properties
Science: Limited peer-reviewed data available for this ingredient. Cucumber is generally recognized as very safe in cosmetics and has a long history of traditional use in skincare, though specific efficacy claims lack robust clinical support.
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Isohexadecane is a lightweight synthetic oil used in skincare formulations to improve texture, spreadability, and how products feel on skin. It helps emulsions stay stable and gives products a smooth, non-greasy finish.
Benefits
- Creates a smooth, lightweight texture that spreads easily on skin
- Helps skincare products absorb without a heavy or greasy feel
- Improves product stability in emulsions
Science: Research shows isohexadecane is used in oil-in-water emulsions to enhance spreadability and skin feel. Studies confirm it functions effectively as an emollient ingredient, though it has slightly higher instability in nano-emulsion systems compared to linear-chain oils with similar carbon numbers.
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Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate is a synthetic emollient and thickening agent derived from stearic acid. It helps bind water and oil together in formulas while creating a smooth, non-greasy feel on skin.
Benefits
- Improves product texture and spreadability
- Provides lightweight moisturizing without heaviness
- Helps stabilize emulsions and prevent separation
Science: Limited peer-reviewed data available for this ingredient. It is derived from naturally-occurring stearic acid and is well-tolerated in cosmetic formulations at typical use levels, with no established sensitization concerns in the broader literature on similar synthetic esters.
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Analysis not yet available for this ingredient.
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Analysis not yet available for this ingredient.
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Dicaprylyl Ether is a lightweight emollient derived from fatty acids that helps soften and smooth the skin. It works by creating a protective layer on the skin's surface, improving texture and moisture retention without leaving a greasy feel.
Benefits
- Softens and conditions skin
- Lightweight, non-greasy texture
- Improves skin smoothness
- Enhances product spreadability
Science: An Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) assessed dicaprylyl ether as part of a group of fatty ethers used in cosmetics and concluded these ingredients are safe for use in cosmetic formulations at typical concentrations.
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Lauryl glucoside is a gentle, plant-derived surfactant (cleansing agent) made by combining a natural sugar with a fatty acid. It's commonly used in cleansers and shampoos to remove dirt and oil from skin while being milder than many synthetic alternatives.
Benefits
- Effective at cleansing without stripping skin
- Biodegradable and environmentally sustainable
- Gentler on skin compared to harsher surfactants
Potential concerns
- Can cause allergic contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals
- May cause irritation at high concentrations or with repeated exposure
Science: Lauryl glucoside is valued for its biodegradability and skin-gentleness in cosmetics. However, research shows it can trigger allergic contact reactions in some people, particularly those with existing sensitivities to similar surfactants like decyl glucoside.
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Analysis not yet available for this ingredient.
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Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate is a synthetic ester derived from stearic acid that works as an emollient and thickening agent. It helps create a smooth texture in formulations and conditions the skin by forming a protective layer on the surface.
Benefits
- Smooths and softens skin texture
- Improves product consistency and spreadability
- Creates a lightweight conditioning layer without significant penetration
Potential concerns
- May cause mild irritation in sensitive individuals or at high concentrations (7.5–20% range)
- Can cause mild ocular (eye) irritation if direct contact occurs
- Very limited data available; safety conclusions rely partly on related ingredient profiles
Science: Safety panel review found that 95% of applied Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate remains on the skin surface with minimal penetration, reducing systemic exposure concerns. Clinical testing at typical use concentrations (2–15%) showed non- to mild irritation and no sensitization or mutagenic effects.
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Sorbitan Laurate is a mild emulsifier derived from sorbitol (a sugar alcohol) and lauric acid (a fatty acid). It helps blend water and oil-based ingredients in skincare formulations to create smooth, stable products.
Benefits
- Improves product texture and stability
- Helps distribute oils evenly throughout formulations
- Generally well-tolerated by skin
Potential concerns
- May cause minimal irritation in sensitive individuals at high concentrations
- Showed cocarcinogenic activity in one animal study, though regulators concluded this poses negligible risk in typical cosmetic use
Science: Sorbitan fatty acid esters like Sorbitan Laurate are generally nontoxic, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing in standard cosmetic concentrations. One mouse skin-painting study identified cocarcinogenic potential, but regulatory panels determined that typical cosmetic exposure levels, frequency, and lack of dose-response relationship do not present a meaningful cocarcinogenesis risk.
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Tocopheryl acetate is a stable, oil-soluble form of vitamin E commonly used in skincare. It works as an antioxidant to help protect skin from environmental damage and may help maintain skin moisture.
Benefits
- Antioxidant protection against free radicals
- May help reduce signs of aging
- Supports skin hydration and barrier function
Potential concerns
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals
- May cause mild irritation at high concentrations
Science: Tocopheryl acetate is widely used and generally recognized as safe in cosmetics. It's a stable derivative of vitamin E that the skin can convert to active vitamin E, supporting antioxidant benefits, though direct peer-reviewed efficacy studies specifically on this ester are limited compared to unesterified vitamin E.
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