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Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% Cream for Redness and Blemish-Prone Skin
The Ordinary
$12.20
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Dimethicone is a silicone-based ingredient that forms a smooth, protective layer on your skin. It helps lock in moisture, creates a soft feel, and is commonly used in moisturizers and primers to improve product texture and skin hydration.
Benefits
- Improves skin hydration by creating a moisture-barrier layer
- Provides a smooth, silky feel to products and on skin
- Well-tolerated by sensitive and atopic (eczema-prone) skin
- Non-greasy alternative to heavier oils
Science: Clinical studies demonstrate dimethicone is safe and well-tolerated in children with atopic dermatitis from 12 months of age. Research shows moisturizers containing dimethicone effectively improve skin hydration in mild-to-moderate atopic dermatitis patients over 14 days.
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Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that prevents bacteria, yeast, and mold from growing in skincare products, helping them stay fresh and safe to use. It has been used safely in cosmetics for decades and is effective at very low concentrations.
Benefits
- Prevents microbial contamination and product spoilage
- Broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity against bacteria and yeast
- Minimal impact on beneficial skin bacteria when used at approved levels
Potential concerns
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals
- May cause irritation if used in products at concentrations above 1%
Science: The European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety considers phenoxyethanol safe for all consumers, including children, at concentrations up to 1%. Adverse effects observed in animal studies required exposure levels approximately 200 times higher than those in cosmetic products, and it is classified as one of the most well-tolerated preservatives in cosmetics.
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Water is the primary ingredient in most skincare products, serving as a solvent that dissolves and carries other active ingredients to your skin. It helps hydrate the skin surface and provides the base texture for creams, serums, and lotions.
Benefits
- Hydrates and plumps skin
- Dissolves and delivers active ingredients
- Maintains skin barrier moisture
Science: Water is the most extensively studied skincare ingredient with a century of dermatological evidence confirming its safety and essential role in skin hydration and product formulation.
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Triethanolamine (TEA) is a pH adjusting agent and surfactant used in cosmetics to balance acidity and help mix oil and water-based ingredients. It's been used in skincare and makeup formulations for decades to improve product stability and texture.
Benefits
- Neutralizes acidic ingredients to achieve optimal skin pH
- Helps create stable, uniform product textures
- Allows better mixing of different ingredient types
Potential concerns
- May cause skin irritation or sensitization in sensitive individuals
- Can form potentially harmful nitrosamines when combined with certain preservatives
- Classified as a potential carcinogen in some recent literature reviews, though regulatory bodies consider it safe at approved concentrations
Science: A 2013 expert panel safety assessment by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review concluded TEA is safe as used in cosmetics. However, a 2023 analysis of commercial products identified TEA and its derivatives as potential carcinogens present in most facial makeup cosmetics tested, highlighting the need for longer-term safety studies on cumulative exposure.
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Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is a chelating agent, which means it binds to trace metals in cosmetic formulas to keep products stable and prevent discoloration or degradation. It's used in small amounts primarily to maintain product quality rather than directly benefit your skin.
Benefits
- Extends product shelf life
- Prevents oxidation and discoloration
- Improves formula stability
Science: Limited peer-reviewed data available for this ingredient. It is approved for cosmetic use under EU and US regulations as a chelating agent and is considered safe at the low concentrations used in skincare formulations.
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Tocopherol is a form of vitamin E, a fat-soluble antioxidant that protects skin from damage caused by free radicals and oxidative stress. It helps maintain skin's natural barrier function and is commonly used in skincare products to prevent premature aging and support overall skin health.
Benefits
- Protects skin from free radical damage and oxidative stress
- Supports skin barrier function and moisture retention
- May help reduce signs of aging caused by UV exposure and environmental damage
- Works as a lipid antioxidant to prevent degradation of skin oils
Science: Tocopherol (α-tocopherol) is recognized in peer-reviewed research as a key endogenous defense mechanism against oxidative stress in aging skin, particularly from UV-induced damage. Studies confirm it functions as a lipid-soluble antioxidant capable of preventing lipid peroxidation, with established efficacy in cosmetic and therapeutic applications.
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Ethoxydiglycol is a clear, colorless liquid used in skincare formulations as a humectant and penetration enhancer. It helps other active ingredients absorb more effectively into the skin while also drawing moisture into the skin's outer layers.
Benefits
- Enhances absorption of active ingredients into skin
- Humectant properties help skin retain moisture
- Improves solubility of certain actives in formulations
- Lightweight feel and quick absorption
Science: Research shows ethoxydiglycol significantly increases skin permeation of topical actives—one study found it boosted transdermal delivery by 6.3-fold compared to standard vehicles. It is recognized as a safe cosmetic ingredient with a long history of use, though peer-reviewed human safety data specific to this ingredient is limited.
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Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative used in skincare products to prevent bacterial and fungal growth, extending shelf life. It's a broad-spectrum antimicrobial agent that helps keep products safe from contamination during storage and use.
Benefits
- Prevents microbial contamination in skincare formulations
- Extends product shelf life
- Allows formulas to remain stable without refrigeration
Potential concerns
- May cause irritation to sensitive eyes and eye area when present in eye products
- Degrades under UV exposure, potentially creating more harmful breakdown products
- Limited long-term safety data in peer-reviewed literature
Science: Research shows chlorphenesin can be toxic to eye tissue cells at approved concentrations, particularly affecting meibomian glands. When exposed to sunlight, it breaks down into compounds like 4-chlorophenol that may be more ecotoxic than the original ingredient, though systemic absorption in skincare is typically minimal.
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Polysorbate 60 is an emulsifier and solubilizer derived from sorbitan and polyethylene glycol. It helps blend water and oil-based ingredients together in formulations and can assist in delivering active ingredients into the skin.
Benefits
- Helps stabilize product texture by mixing incompatible ingredients
- May improve skin penetration of certain active ingredients
- Enables creation of lightweight, uniform formulations
Science: Research shows polysorbate 60 functions effectively as a surfactant in nanoparticle delivery systems, enhancing skin penetration of topical actives. It has been used safely in pharmaceutical formulations with established stability profiles and minimal irritation potential at typical cosmetic concentrations.
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Polysilicone-11 is a silicone-based polymer that forms a protective layer on the skin's surface. It's used in skincare formulations primarily to create a smooth, breathable film that helps products feel pleasant and perform effectively.
Benefits
- Creates a smooth, non-greasy protective layer
- Improves product feel and spreadability
- Helps lock in moisture
Science: A 2024 safety assessment by the Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety concluded that Polysilicone-11 is safe for use in cosmetics at current concentrations and practices. The ingredient functions as a film former with established safety data supporting its use in cosmetic formulations.
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Dimethyl isosorbide is a clear liquid solvent derived from sorbitol that helps dissolve and deliver other skincare actives into the skin more effectively. It works by enhancing the penetration of beneficial ingredients and improving product texture and stability.
Benefits
- Enhances penetration of active ingredients into skin
- Improves product stability and shelf life
- Lightweight solvent that feels comfortable on skin
Potential concerns
- Can cause irritation or sensitization in sensitive skin at high concentrations
- May increase skin penetration of other ingredients, which could be problematic if combined with irritating actives
Science: Dimethyl isosorbide is recognized as a penetration enhancer in cosmetic formulations. Research shows it has relatively low solubility for certain actives (such as piroctone olamine at 9.9 mg/mL), making it suitable for specific formulation strategies targeting epidermal delivery, though peer-reviewed safety and efficacy data in skincare is limited.
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Isoceteth-20 is a gentle, plant-derived emulsifier and surfactant that helps blend water and oil-based ingredients in skincare formulas. It's commonly used in creams and lotions to create a stable, smooth texture that absorbs easily into skin.
Benefits
- Helps stabilize skincare formulas
- Improves texture and spreadability
- Supports delivery of active ingredients into skin layers
Science: Research shows isoceteth-20 effectively helps deliver antioxidant compounds (like idebenone) into the upper layers of skin without causing permeation beyond the epidermis, making it a safe choice for targeting skincare actives where they're needed. It is classified as a non-ionic emulsifier with a well-established safety profile in cosmetics.
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Isohexadecane is a lightweight synthetic oil used in skincare formulations to improve texture, spreadability, and how products feel on skin. It helps emulsions stay stable and gives products a smooth, non-greasy finish.
Benefits
- Creates a smooth, lightweight texture that spreads easily on skin
- Helps skincare products absorb without a heavy or greasy feel
- Improves product stability in emulsions
Science: Research shows isohexadecane is used in oil-in-water emulsions to enhance spreadability and skin feel. Studies confirm it functions effectively as an emollient ingredient, though it has slightly higher instability in nano-emulsion systems compared to linear-chain oils with similar carbon numbers.
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Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring compound that works to reduce acne-causing bacteria and calm inflammation in the skin. It's particularly useful for acne-prone and sensitive skin types, and may also help with rosacea and uneven skin tone.
Benefits
- Helps reduce acne breakouts
- May improve skin texture and clarity
- Anti-inflammatory properties
- Generally well-tolerated by sensitive skin
Potential concerns
- May cause mild irritation, redness, or stinging in some users
- Can cause temporary dryness or peeling
- Not suitable for those with azelaic acid sensitivity
Science: The American Academy of Dermatology (2024) makes a conditional recommendation for azelaic acid in acne management guidelines, indicating moderate evidence of effectiveness. It is considered a supportive treatment option alongside stronger first-line therapies like benzoyl peroxide and topical retinoids.
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Isodecyl Neopentanoate is a lightweight synthetic oil used as an emollient and texture enhancer in skincare products. It helps create a smooth, non-greasy feel while improving how products spread across the skin and absorb.
Benefits
- Creates a smooth, silky skin feel
- Helps products absorb without a heavy, oily residue
- Improves product spreadability and application
Science: Limited peer-reviewed data available for this ingredient. As a synthetic ester commonly used in cosmetics, it is considered safe by major regulatory bodies including the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) and has a long history of use with no documented sensitization concerns in typical skincare formulations.
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