Ingredients
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Glycerin is a naturally derived humectant—a ingredient that draws moisture from the air into your skin. It's one of the most widely used and well-studied moisturizing agents in skincare, helping skin feel softer and more hydrated.
Benefits
- Attracts and retains moisture in the skin
- Improves skin hydration and softness
- Helps strengthen skin barrier function
- Suitable for most skin types, including sensitive skin
Science: The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel concluded glycerin is safe as used in cosmetics across all concentrations. Research shows glycerin effectively improves skin hydration and is well-tolerated with minimal irritation risk. It is also referenced in clinical guidelines for managing inflammatory skin conditions and maintaining skin integrity.
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Glycolic acid is a naturally derived chemical exfoliant (alpha hydroxy acid) that gently dissolves the bonds holding dead skin cells to the surface, helping to remove them and reveal fresher skin underneath. It's one of the smallest and most penetrating AHAs, making it effective for improving skin texture, tone, and clarity.
Benefits
- Exfoliates dead skin cells to improve skin texture and brightness
- Helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and uneven skin tone
- Can be used as an adjuvant treatment for dark spots and melasma
- Generally well-tolerated with minimal side effects when used properly
Potential concerns
- Can cause irritation, redness, or sensitivity, especially in higher concentrations or with frequent use
- May increase sun sensitivity — daily SPF 30+ is essential
- Not suitable for very sensitive or compromised skin barriers without gradual introduction
- Can cause dryness or stinging in some individuals
Science: Research confirms glycolic acid is an effective adjuvant therapy for melasma and other skin concerns with minimal adverse effects. Cosmetic dermatologists recognize it as a well-established, evidence-backed skincare ingredient, though it works best when introduced gradually and combined with sun protection.
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Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative used in skincare products to prevent bacterial and fungal growth, extending shelf life. It's a broad-spectrum antimicrobial agent that helps keep products safe from contamination during storage and use.
Benefits
- Prevents microbial contamination in skincare formulations
- Extends product shelf life
- Allows formulas to remain stable without refrigeration
Potential concerns
- May cause irritation to sensitive eyes and eye area when present in eye products
- Degrades under UV exposure, potentially creating more harmful breakdown products
- Limited long-term safety data in peer-reviewed literature
Science: Research shows chlorphenesin can be toxic to eye tissue cells at approved concentrations, particularly affecting meibomian glands. When exposed to sunlight, it breaks down into compounds like 4-chlorophenol that may be more ecotoxic than the original ingredient, though systemic absorption in skincare is typically minimal.
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Lactic acid is a mild chemical exfoliant that works by gently dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells on the surface, helping to slough them away. It's an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from milk fermentation and is gentler than stronger exfoliants, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.
Benefits
- Gently exfoliates dead skin cells for a smoother texture
- Improves skin radiance and brightness
- Helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and uneven skin tone
- Supports skin hydration by improving moisture absorption
Potential concerns
- Can cause redness, stinging, or irritation, especially at higher concentrations or on sensitive skin
- Increases sun sensitivity — daily SPF is essential when using
- May irritate active acne or compromised skin barrier
- Can cause dryness if overused or not followed with adequate moisturizer
Science: Lactic acid is widely recognized as an effective gentle exfoliant for improving skin texture and hydration. It has a longer history of safe topical use in dermatology compared to stronger AHAs, though it requires proper formulation (typically 5-12% for leave-on products) and concurrent sun protection to minimize irritation risk.
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Stearic acid is a naturally occurring fatty acid commonly derived from plant or animal sources. In skincare products, it functions as an emollient and emulsifier, helping to soften skin, improve product texture, and stabilize formulations by allowing oil and water to mix together.
Benefits
- Softens and moisturizes skin by forming a protective barrier
- Improves product texture and stability
- Helps other active ingredients penetrate the skin more effectively
Potential concerns
- May cause mild irritation or sensitivity in people with very sensitive skin
- Can leave a slight waxy residue if used in high concentrations
Science: Research indicates stearic acid acts as a permeation enhancer, potentially improving how active ingredients cross the skin barrier. It is well-established in cosmetic formulation design and has a strong safety history in topical products.
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Sodium Hydroxide is a strong alkaline chemical used in skincare products primarily as a pH buffer to neutralize acids and adjust the product's pH to safe levels for skin. It is not an active skincare ingredient and appears only in trace amounts in finished products.
Potential concerns
- In concentrated form, sodium hydroxide is caustic and can cause severe chemical burns; however, in cosmetic products it is diluted and pH-buffered to safe levels
- Undiluted or highly concentrated sodium hydroxide should never contact skin directly
Science: The provided research discusses sodium hydroxide only in a specialized medical context (10% solution for surgical cauterization of ingrown toenails), which is not relevant to cosmetic skincare use. In properly formulated skincare products, sodium hydroxide is used in minimal concentrations solely for pH adjustment and is considered safe by regulatory bodies including the FDA and EU.
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Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate is a mild, plant-derived cleanser made from coconut oil and the amino acid glycine. It gently removes dirt and oil from skin while being less harsh than many traditional soaps, making it commonly used in facial cleansers and body washes.
Benefits
- Gentle cleansing action suitable for sensitive skin
- Effective at removing oil and impurities without over-drying
- Naturally derived from renewable sources
Science: Limited peer-reviewed data available for this ingredient. It is widely recognized as a mild surfactant with a good safety profile in cosmetic formulations and is commonly used in personal care products marketed for sensitive skin.
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Maltodextrin is a carbohydrate derived from starches like corn or potato. In skincare, it's used as a filler, thickener, and texture agent — it has no direct active benefit for skin itself.
Science: Maltodextrin is an inert, non-toxic carbohydrate commonly used as a placebo control in clinical nutrition studies, indicating excellent safety and tolerability. No adverse effects on skin health or systemic absorption concerns have been documented.
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Orange peel oil is an essential oil extracted from the peel of sweet oranges. It's used in skincare for its pleasant citrus scent and potential antioxidant properties, though its skincare benefits are largely cosmetic rather than therapeutic.
Benefits
- Antioxidant protection from vitamin C and limonene
- Pleasant natural fragrance
- May provide mild uplifting aromatherapy effect
Potential concerns
- Can cause photosensitivity or increased sun sensitivity in some users
- May irritate sensitive or compromised skin
- Potential contact allergen, especially in those with citrus sensitivities
Science: Limited peer-reviewed data available specifically for orange peel oil in skincare formulations. General research suggests citrus essential oils contain antioxidant compounds, but concentration and stability in cosmetic products varies significantly.
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Bergamot fruit oil is a natural essential oil extracted from the peel of bergamot oranges. It's used in skincare for its pleasant citrus scent and potential brightening or clarifying properties, though its primary role is often fragrance.
Benefits
- Pleasant fragrance
- May have mild antimicrobial properties
- Potentially uplifting sensory experience
Potential concerns
- Photosensitivity risk—bergapten (a compound in bergamot) can increase sun sensitivity and cause skin irritation or discoloration when exposed to UV light
- May irritate sensitive skin or those with citrus allergies
- Can be drying in high concentrations
Science: Bergamot oil contains furanocoumarins (bergapten) known to cause phototoxic reactions. Limited peer-reviewed data specifically supports skincare benefits beyond fragrance and mild antimicrobial activity. Use caution in daytime formulas or consider bergapten-free (FCF) versions.
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Papain is a natural enzyme extracted from unripe papaya fruit that breaks down proteins in the skin. In skincare, it's used as a gentle exfoliant to remove dead skin cells and is being researched for treating scarring and promoting skin renewal.
Benefits
- Gentle enzymatic exfoliation without physical scrubbing
- May help improve skin texture and appearance
- Research suggests potential for treating excessive scarring when properly formulated
Potential concerns
- Can cause skin irritation or epidermal damage if used at high concentrations or without proper formulation
- Allergic reactions are relatively common, including skin rashes and asthma
- Cross-reactivity with latex and kiwi allergies has been documented
Science: Papain is a proteolytic (protein-breaking) enzyme most potent in unripe papaya. Recent research shows papain-loaded transferosomes can deliver the enzyme into skin layers without causing damage, but papain solution alone can cause noticeable epidermal degradation. Safety depends heavily on formulation and concentration; effectiveness in commercial skincare products requires proper delivery systems.
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Benzyl alcohol is a preservative and solvent commonly used in skincare products to prevent bacterial and fungal growth, extending shelf life. It also helps dissolve and mix other ingredients together in formulations.
Benefits
- Preserves product freshness and prevents microbial contamination
- Helps stabilize and blend formula ingredients
- Generally recognized as safe for topical use in cosmetics at approved concentrations
Potential concerns
- Can cause skin irritation or allergic contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals
- May cause stinging or dryness on broken or compromised skin
- High systemic absorption in infants and neonates is a known concern; products containing benzyl alcohol should be kept away from babies and nursing mothers should avoid application to breast tissue
Science: Benzyl alcohol is widely used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations as a preservative. Research indicates it has low systemic absorption through intact adult skin at typical cosmetic concentrations, but neonatal toxicity is a documented concern at high doses, warranting caution in products used near infants or during breastfeeding.
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Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder is a concentrated, dehydrated form of aloe vera gel extracted from the inner leaf of the aloe plant. It's commonly used in skincare for its soothing and hydrating properties, and is a more shelf-stable alternative to fresh aloe juice.
Benefits
- Soothes irritated or inflamed skin
- Provides hydration and moisture
- May help reduce redness and calm sensitive skin
Potential concerns
- Can cause contact dermatitis or allergic reactions in sensitive individuals
- May increase photosensitivity in some people, especially if using high concentrations
- Quality and potency vary depending on processing methods
Science: Aloe vera is widely used in skincare and has a long history of traditional use. Limited peer-reviewed data available specifically for the powdered form, though fresh aloe gel has been studied for soothing and hydrating effects. Standardization of active compounds can vary significantly between manufacturers.
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This is a liquid extract made by fermenting daikon radish with Leuconostoc bacteria. It functions primarily as a natural preservative in skincare products, helping prevent bacterial and microbial growth to extend shelf life.
Benefits
- Natural preservative that helps prevent bacterial contamination
- May have mild antimicrobial properties on skin
- Derived from fermented ingredients, appealing to 'clean beauty' preferences
Potential concerns
- Salicylic acid content may cause irritation or dryness in sensitive skin
- Potential allergic reactions in individuals sensitive to radish or fermentation byproducts
- Limited safety data at typical cosmetic concentrations
Science: Research shows this ingredient's antimicrobial activity comes from salicylic acid (active against Gram-negative bacteria) and didecyldimethylammonium salts (active against Gram-positive bacteria), rather than from fermentation-produced compounds as traditionally claimed. However, peer-reviewed data on its safety and efficacy specifically in skincare formulations at cosmetic use levels is limited.
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Xylitol is a naturally occurring sugar alcohol that functions as a humectant in skincare, helping to draw moisture into the skin and maintain hydration. It has been safely used in cosmetics, food, and pharmaceuticals for over 50 years.
Benefits
- Hydrates and moisturizes skin by drawing water into the outer layers
- Gentle humectant suitable for sensitive skin types
- Does not trigger rapid blood sugar spikes like regular sugar
Science: Xylitol is endogenously produced in the body and has an established safety history spanning decades of use across multiple industries. Recent cardiovascular research found no significant risk links in clinical studies, though some pilot trials suggest temporary platelet effects at very high doses—irrelevant to topical skincare application.
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Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate is a modified starch ingredient derived from plant sources. In skincare products, it acts as a thickening agent to improve texture and consistency, helping products feel smooth and easy to apply.
Benefits
- Thickens and improves product texture
- Creates a smooth, spreadable consistency
- Plant-derived ingredient
Science: The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel assessed Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate and concluded it is safe for use in cosmetics at typical concentrations. No significant safety concerns have been identified in cosmetic applications.
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Anhydroxylitol is a sugar alcohol derived from natural sources, used in skincare formulas primarily as a humectant to help retain moisture in the skin. It works by drawing water into the outer layer of skin, making it smoother and more hydrated.
Benefits
- Improves skin hydration and moisture retention
- Reduces visible skin roughness and fine texture
- Smooths skin microrelief (the tiny peaks and valleys on skin surface)
Science: A 2023 clinical study found that a moisturiser blend containing anhydroxylitol (combined with xylitylglucoside and xylitol) significantly reduced skin roughness measures within 8 hours of application, outperforming some individual moisturisers like urea. The ingredient received a safety clearance from the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel in 2025, confirming its safety for use in cosmetics.
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Xylitylglucoside is a natural humectant derived from xylose and glucose that works by drawing moisture into the skin and helping it stay hydrated. It's a gentle, sugar-based ingredient commonly used in moisturisers to improve skin smoothness and texture.
Benefits
- Improves skin hydration and moisture retention
- Reduces skin roughness and smooths microrelief texture
- Gentle humectant suitable for sensitive skin types
Science: A 2023 clinical study found that xylitylglucoside (combined with anhydroxylitol and xylitol) showed strong moisturising effects, reducing skin roughness by 2.8-fold and plateau height by 2.1-fold within 8 hours of application—performance comparable to or better than urea and saccharide isomerate.
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Lauramidopropyl betaine is a mild, plant-derived surfactant (cleaning agent) commonly used in cleansers and shampoos. It helps remove oil and dirt from skin while maintaining a gentle, non-irritating formula.
Benefits
- Gentle cleansing without stripping skin
- Reduces irritation compared to harsher surfactants
- Helps stabilize and thicken formulations
- Mild enough for sensitive skin types
Potential concerns
- May cause irritation in very sensitive individuals at high concentrations
- Can occasionally trigger reactions in those with surfactant sensitivities
Science: Research confirms lauramidopropyl betaine is a zwitterionic (amphoteric) surfactant with mild properties suitable for cosmetic formulations. Studies demonstrate it effectively disperses in water-based systems and maintains stability across various solvent mixtures, supporting its use in rinse-off products where irritation risk is minimal.
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Bromelain is a natural enzyme mixture extracted from pineapple fruit and stems that works by breaking down proteins on the skin's surface. In skincare, it's used as a gentle exfoliant to remove dead skin cells and may help reduce inflammation and redness.
Benefits
- Gentle enzymatic exfoliation
- May reduce inflammation and redness
- Potentially supports wound healing and skin repair
Potential concerns
- Can cause irritation, redness, or sensitivity in some users
- May trigger allergic reactions, especially in those with pineapple or latex allergies
- Excessive use may over-exfoliate and damage skin barrier
- Not suitable for very sensitive or compromised skin
Science: Recent systematic reviews confirm bromelain retains enzymatic activity after absorption and shows modest efficacy for topical applications, though most clinical evidence focuses on oral and wound-healing uses rather than cosmetic skincare. Safety data indicate common side effects are mild (irritation, sensitivity), but individual tolerance varies significantly.
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